Spoiler Installation
Foglight Installation
Side Marker Lights

Arriving from California in a really beat up box, I was concerned for the welfare of this piece of fiberglass, but the packaging held. Take the spoiler to a good body shop and they will prep and paint it for about $100-150. It's best if you can leave the car with the shop so that they can match the paint exactly.

Removal of the existing wing is a breeze. There are four bolts on the underside of the trunk lid, a stablizer plug on the driver side and the wiring for the brake light on the passenger side. Simply remove the four bolts and pull the wing straight up. Clip the wiring close to the wing, leaving enough if you ever need to reattach it.

Getting that pesky white plastic plug out of the way is another story altogether. If you can carefully get under the lip of the plug with pliers and break the lip upward, you should be able to push it through the hole without damage. You'll need to pry the interior away from the trunk lid to remove the plug. Use your hands and use some force.

It will pop eventually (and loudly), as it's attached with bent metal clips that slide into slots in the metal of the lid. Reach under and remove the white plastic support plug, then push the interior back into place. It will pop.

Prepare the new wing for installation by running the wires from the brake light through the wing with the assistance of the preinstalled guide wire. Remove a small portion of the tape backing from the brake light and position it temporarily. Set the wing on the trunk lid, upside down so that you can solder the wires easily.

Slide about three inches of shrink wrap down over the existing wires. Tin and solder the wires solidly then shrink the wrap around the new solder joints, making sure to avoid any possibility of shorting. Tape the wires with electrical tape and slide them into the wing as you position it in place.

Having removed the bolts from the wing, set the wing on the trunk lid in its proper position, gaskets in place, and attach all four bolts so that they're just threaded. Tighten them down slowly, rotating your way around until they're all tight. Do not over-tighten them or the wing may crack.

UPDATE: 06/99
After having the spoiler installed for some time, the light went out. I went through a few sessions of troubleshooting, eventually putting the stock spoiler back on for testing. The light was in fact bad and I had to replace the old light assembly - not a fun job at all. That tape they give you to stick the LED to the spoiler is heavy-duty. A hair dryer and lots and lots of force eventually loosened the light.

The first thing to do is figure out where you want the lights mounted and to clean that area thoroughly. Make sure there is enough clearance on either side of the mounting bracket to bolt the light to the bracket. You may wish to remove the front bumper cover for easier access.

Temporarily attach the metal mounting brackets to the bumper with the sticky foam mounts and score the hole marks. Remove the brackets. Grab a drill and slowly drill through the bumper, making sure you're on your mark.

Pre-thread the mounting plates with the included bolts. Place the brackets back on the bumper and run the bolts down so that they stick just through the bumper. Use one hand to position the mounting plate inside the bumper and the other to screw the bolt down. Repeat this for all bolts. Mount the lights on the brackets, tightening down enough to hold their position.

If you thought that was fun, just wait for the wiring. There is a way to wire the lights so that they stay on with your parking lights, but I decided to wire them to the included switch anyway. The biggest problem here was figuring out which wire to pull power from.

Mount the transceiver somewhere near your battery, on the firewall if possible. Run the wires to the lights, using tie-wraps to secure the lines along the way. If you have some black plastic wire-wrap tubing, I suggest using it. Also, if it's feasible, get under the car and run the lights around from the underside for a cleaner looking engine compartment.

Attach the wires as directed and run the wires that need to go through the firewall along the back of the engine compartment to the driver's side. There is a large rubber gasket that a bunch of wires run through to the interior. Feed the wires through there and you should be able to pull them through the rest of the way, up behind the carpeting near the footrest.

Wire up the switch and run the orange wire back out through the gasket to the driver's side signal/marker light. Splice in here and solder the wire to the parking light wire. Shrink wrap and tape and you're all set. I chose to run this wire this way because I could not make heads or tails of all the wires running up under the dash. If you can, then feel free to keep it inside.

Run the wires inside the car up behind the dash and secure them with tie wraps. I have yet to mount the switch. For the time being it is wedged between dash panels to the right of the steering column, held in place by wires and a tie wrap. It's functional, but not pretty.

UPDATE: 05/99
An attempt to steal the lights off my bumper failed, thanks to the secure mounts. Only the wires were unplugged, and there was nothing I could do about the slashed tire.

RECOMMENDATION: Get the variety of light that only requires three holes to be drilled. These are more of a surface-mount deal. One large hole for the light assembly to fit through, two small screw holes for the reflector assembly to bolt to the fender. More secure, less cutting and a generally cleaner look. A few bucks more (maybe 10-20), but the reduced install cost should cover the parts cost.

This is not a do-it-yourself job. It requires drilling into the fender and cutting a square hole for the lights to fit into. Already, after about a month the spring clips that hold the lights in are giving a bit, causing the light to sort of pull away from the fender. Far from cool.

The installation took about three hours. Three hours of loud cutting and sawing and drilling. They did a good clean job, but the time and cost invested is too much. The other variety of lights just makes loads more sense.