Super AFC
Rev/Speed Meter
Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Antenna Switch

Perhaps I jumped into this one a little thoughtlessly. Perhaps I don't care. It's cool. Monitoring functions are cool, with peak hold, 2D graph and "analog" gauges. Now where to mount the thing? It came with a double-stick tape attached mounting bracket that would conceivably go on the top of the dash, but... nah.

It's a pretty impressive looking little unit. With the GS-R the only functions you can monitor are RPM, manifold pressure, throttle position, and fuel correction. Airflow and "Karman" go unused. Coincidentally, you can monitor up to four readings at once in either basic or graph mode and two at once in the very cool, extremely smooth "analog" mode.

I've figured out how the thing functions, but have yet to put it to any really good use, other than looking cool and checking peak RPM. A pretty versitile unit, complete in its controls, I'll let you know when I get it all dialed in on the dyno.

Installation is fun. Right. Basically, start by pulling your computer out. The diagrams in the manuals (make sure to get those in English) outline which wires are which. Strip them, attach the wires, wrap in tape and route the harness to the S-AFC back behind the computer. One wire does need to be cut and have male and female attachments mounted, but that's a snap.

Since I did the Rev/Speed meter at the same time, you can imagine the rat's nest of wires I was dealing with. I was glad I'd labeled everything I could ahead of time.

The only real problems I ran into were getting the green plastic ECU wire shield off of the bronzish colored ECU shield and the tight working environment. There's not much slack in those wires, so I spent a good amount of time laying over the passenger seat upside-down. Everything worked great once I put it all back together, so I'm happy. If there was an easier place to jack into that same harness, I wish I'd known about it.

We'll see what the dyno can tell us.

What can I say? Overboard.

The unit is pretty cool. Three large red LEDs make up the bulk of the display, showing the highest significant numbers (i.e. 8000 displays as 800).

Four buttons adorn the smallish unit - for switching through the functions, going into setup mode, checking peak and resetting peak (the last two also control the timer/stopwatch functions).

Oddly enough, reading the same signal, the S-AFC and RSM don't quite agree on the one function they both perform - RPM monitoring. They're very close, but while I've seen peaks around 8160 (fuel cut-off) on the S-AFC all I get out of the RSM is about "798", so they seem to be within 100rpm of each other and I trust the S-AFC a little more on this one. Run it up for an intentional cut-off and it's always right about 8100. The in-dash tach is about 150rpm slow, as well.

The speedometer function is what I use most. With the slight difference in wheel/tire size, I see an inaccuracy on the in-dash speedometer that is "corrected" with a little calculation and then setting on the RSM.

The in-dash speedometer is about 1.5mph fast per 20mph as well (i.e. 20mph is in fact 18-19, 60 is in fact about 56, etc.). Larger wheel/tire combinations lead to perceived losees in fuel economy and a high speedometer reading. Thanks to the built-in odometer that takes into account the change in diameter, you can keep track of this easily. The larger you go, the more inaccurate your gauges get.

I guess you could conceivably put much larger rims on your car and drive about 10k miles while registering around 12k on the in-dash odometer. There's something going for resale value!

After doing a little research, I decided it was a good idea to add the air/fuel ratio meter. Don't wanna blow anything up, you know.

The guage is mounted in an A-pillar dual guage pod from Autometer. Workable, but not the most elegant thing I've ever seen.

Installation is a relative breeze. Run some 18-guage wire up from the WHITE wire off the primary oxygen sensor (on the front end of the catalytic converter), run power from an ACC/ON source and run a ground wire to something nice and grounded.

I ran a length of wire connected at the O2 sensor with a quick-clip connector up along the firewall in through the grommet near the clutch fluid reservoir - the same place I've run most all the wires in and out of the engine compartment. It comes through high behind the fusebox. Pretty easy to get at.

Power can be found in a lot of places under the dash. It's good to find a circuit that works in the ignition ON position only, though. I found this by probing open circuits in the fuse box, soldering a spade to the wire and making a firm connection.

Find a nice solid ground and you're up and running, wherever you decide to mount the unit.

Under regular driving conditions, the gauge will sort of bounce up and down, peaking around the middle. Under WOT it should read a little on the rich side with a constant bar. This is with stock fuel flow, of course.

Inspiration/Instructions: The Acura Integra Modifications Page. Installing this switch is pretty easy. Really!

I found a nice blue rocker switch that would fit one of the blanks in the center console. The home/hardware stores don't have these. Check an electrical supply store or auto parts shop.

All I did was trim out the blank, slide in the switch, solder wires to the switch and run wires to the antenna power wire coming out of the back of the head unit (clipped and attached to the ends of the wires coming from the switch).

I soldered at both ends because 1) I didn't have any spade connectors to attach to the switch 2) at the radio end I couldn't fit the crimp tool in there.

The illumination works with power flowing through the circuit (antenna up) and you only have to lift up the rear of the center console, as you can run the wires tucked up underneath the passenger side of the console. I like.